Nina Ricci, the 90-year-old French vogue home owned by Spanish perfume conglomerate Puig, has named a brand new artistic director and enterprise chief.
Harris Reed — recognized for his fantastical, historic, gender-fluid creations — will be a part of the corporate as artistic director, efficient instantly. His first assortment will likely be proven in Paris in early 2023. Edwin Bodson, most not too long ago world business director at JW Anderson, is taking the helm of the enterprise as basic director.
Los Angeles-born, London-based Reed is the most recent in a string of designers to try to re-energise the style home, recognized for its apple-shaped fragrance bottles, retro cloche hats and ladylike silhouettes.
As an outspoken LGBTQI+ advocate who’s enthusiastic about pushing gender-fluid vogue into the mainstream, Reed is more likely to shake up the model, whose conventional French tackle femininity is more and more out of step with at the moment’s shoppers. On the similar time, Reed is a devoted researcher whose curiosity in historic costume could lead on him to leverage the model’s decades-long archive.
“I’m really excited to problem the panorama of what femininity means throughout vogue and wonder in such an iconic home,” Reed mentioned in a press release.
“As a gender-fluid designer rejecting norms in a quest for freedom, Harris’ singular imaginative and prescient of magnified femininity will span throughout Nina Ricci,” added Bodson.
The 26-year-old Reed replaces Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, the Antwerp-educated, Andam prize-winning duo behind Botter, who exited the model in January after three years.
Botter and Herrebrugh landed on a recognisable signature for Nina Ricci with their outsized, neon replace on the model’s felt hats. However its Avenue Montaigne flagship in Paris was shuttered (changed by a store for Puig-stablemate Paco Rabanne) after gross sales struggled to take off, then collapsed in the course of the pandemic, inflicting the model to go “digital first.” Different previous artistic administrators at Nina Ricci embody Patou’s present designer Guillaume Henry, Peter Copping and Olivier Theyskens.
Nina Ricci’s “Air du Temps” scent was a top-10 perfume in Europe till at the very least the late Nineties, when Puig acquired the model, however the model’s market share has since slipped.
One of many trade’s brightest rising stars, Reed has garnered buzz and a spotlight for elaborate and crowd pleasing creations worn by A-Listing names like Harry Types, Beyoncé and Adele, catapulting gender-fluid vogue into the highlight.
Curiosity in his viral designs (together with ones worn by Harry Types in U.S. Vogue) has helped market in style tie-ups with accessible manufacturers like MAC make-up and jewelry label Missoma. It’s the form of halo impact that might be one definition of success at Nina Ricci for fragrance-focused Puig, and will assist potential strikes like enlargement into colour-cosmetics.
Puig made headlines in latest months with its $1 billion acquisition of area of interest perfume label Byredo, in addition to reportedly coming into talks to launch magnificence for the new French model Jacquemus.
Current years have additionally seen Puig experiment with completely different fashions for its attire companies.
Buying Dries Van Noten in 2018 gave the group publicity to a big ready-to-wear enterprise, providing the corporate extra inroads into the availability chain for designer attire and equipment. Jean Paul Gaultier, however, changed its seasonal vogue enterprise with one-off collaborations with a rotating casts of designers. Carolina Herrera — one of many group’s most profitable perfume companies — continues to supply a ready-to-wear and customized line in New York, in addition to a diffusion line “CH” which is produced by way of license.
Extra reporting by Robert Williams.